New Yorkers in Mallorca

Part 1

Our Spring break plans weren’t always very linear. We initially discussed a trip to Eastern Europe but in the end decided on heading in the opposite direction, more specifically southwest to the Balearic Island of Mallorca. Our friends from New York (and parents of Mila, Olivia’s bff from Pre-K), moved to the island about 3 years ago and had been inviting us to visit ever since. As this would be our first trip to any Balearic Island and an opportunity for Olivia and Mila to reunite, we felt this trip was meant to be.

Last fall we discovered the facility of traveling to Mediterranean islands by ferry (see our Corsica/Sardinia posts), with your own vehicle in tow, and this shaped our decision to ferry it over to Mallorca as well. The 12-hour voyage (from Toulon), was very manageable as it took place overnight and the girls actually slept through most of it.

With a morning arrival in Mallorca, day one offered plenty to do in our initial contact with the island. Olivia and Mila were ecstatic to be together again and had the better part of a week to catch up and form new memories together. After leaving the Alcúdia port, we kicked off the sunny morning with a hike to the Na Patana beach (or platja in Catalan), on the northern side of the island. The setting there was quick to point to the natural beauty of Mallorca’s landscape, turquoise waters and clay hued foot paths highlighted by green vegetation. It was the perfect spot for a picnic lunch while taking it all in. Just nearby was the 7th century BC Necropolis of Son Real, a prehistoric cemetery comprising 100+ tombs whose magical setting served the burial needs of several cultures (from the early inhabitants of Mallorca all the way to the Romans several centuries later).

The beach theme carried over into the following couple of days which only felt natural as a way to continue discovering Mallorca’s beauty and also offer the girls plenty of play time. First up was the cosmopolitan Platja De L’Oratori where hotels and restaurants seemed ubiquitous, catering to the abundance of visitors to the popular destination. Next we headed to Platja del Mago where the coves lined by white limestone formations and blue water created a perfect mental imprint of the essence of Mallorca. Mago is apparently a nudist beach although there didn’t seem to be any nudists during our visit. The dreamy sea view from Mago was something to be relished but not for too long as the chorus of Sweet Caroline emanating from a booze cruise idled in the bay perturbed my moment of zen. Oh, those fun-seeking (no children yet), all you can drink tourists. Nevertheless the beach experiences were great. The girls enjoyed playing in the fine sand and even took a brief dip in the water, which was still too frigid for me.

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Part 2

After a couple of days at the beach, we planned to spend the next two exploring Mallorca’s capital, Palma. Palma’s origins date back to Roman times where their settlement dubbed Palmyra was created in the 1st century BC. Later came the Byzantines and the Moors and vestiges from their time on he island remain visible today particularly in some of the construction they left behind. The old town (or centre in Catalan), is quite walkable and boasts eclectic architectural styles that define some of the more prominent buildings around town. Some of my favorite features were the protruding ornate balconies emblematic of Spanish architecture seen not only in Palma and Spain, but throughout the Latin world at large. The pastel colored streets bustled with people this time of year which still falls within shoulder season or the “best time” to visit. Mallorca has become more and more international over the years and the sound of various languages spoken in Palma attested to the diversity of its visitors and those who call it home. Our walk took us past a few notable sights including Plaça Major, the Town Hall, the Cathedral of Santa Maria of Palma de Mallorca and the Almudaina (formerly a Moorish fortress and currently a royal residence), as some of the main hi-lights. The city’s vibe came across as classy, wordly and very chill, with a scenic setting on the Mediterranean Sea as a huge bonus. No wonder our friends moved there!

With a rainy day in the forecast we planned to check out the Cuevas del Drach (Drach Caves), as a way to dodge the unwanted precipitation. The caves were located on the eastern coast of the Mallorca near the town of Porto Cristo, about a 45-minute drive from Palma. The underground system is composed of 4 caves and extends over 2 miles with a depth of around 75 feet. There are several visiting tours throughout the day (approximately an hour long), that allow large groups to navigate through. The capacious cave never felt cramped and above all it gave way to a lake (Martel Lake, one of the largest underground lakes in the world), formed from the sea water that penetrated it millions of years ago. This was a great and unexpected feature as were the thousands of mini stalactites hanging overhead whose volume seemed confounding. The tour ended with a spectacle of classical music performed by musicians on a rowboat on the lake, a unique take for a cave visit. And luckily we were allowed to embark the same type of boats as a way to exit the caves, which was a lot of fun for the girls (and for us big kids too).

Our final Mallorca adventure was quite the adventure. We set out for a hike towards Castell d’Alaró (Alaró Castle), that’s set in the Serra de Tramuntana mountains and offers magnificent views of Mallorca’s landscape. The hike itself was fun and although we didn’t make it to the castle (due to an impending lunch commitment), the drive up to where we began our hike was replete with nerves and anxiety. Ostensibly the “two lane” road was really just big enough for one and progressively worsened as it sinuously ascended without end in sight. The 15-minute drive up (which felt much longer), kept us on high alert not only for avoiding a flat and numerous potholes, but also the sporadic descending vehicles, hikers and bikers, all of which at times required some creative maneuvering. In the end, the girls enjoyed our Earth Day hike after which we rewarded ourselves with a hard earned and copious traditional lunch at Es Verger.

As the week wore on, our time in Mallorca approached its close, leaving us to reflect on the good times and the amazing hospitality our of New York friends. Gracias amigos!

Next up, Barcelona!