The new day brought on new ambitions and we started our morning heading out to the town of Roussillon, to check out its unusual Sentier des Ocres (or Ochre Trail). Unlike the images that come to mind when dreaming of Provence, this area around Roussillon is particularly curious in its geological composition. Iron oxide is present in the sandy soil (dating back eons when Provence was under water), which transformed the landscape into a Rolland Garros’esque bright orange setting balanced by the green pine and oak forests.
The Ochre trail is a main attraction in this part of Provence and delivers on getting up close and personal with a rather unique setting. The ochre from this region eventually became known around the world (first extracted in the late 18 century by Roussillon local Jean-Étienne Astier), as the clay pigment later became industrialized and exported around the world. It was primarily utilized in painting (art and house paint), although it became used in the rubber industry as well. My mother was excited about the various hues of ochre, the way they brightened the landscape and also adorned the buildings in Roussillon. From light orange to deep rusty shades, the town expressed its ochre identity within its streets. The trail took no longer than an hour to complete and, included in that, were very frequent stops for photos.
Roussillon itself is one of seven towns situated within the Vaucluse department, that bears the classification of Plus Beaux Villages de France (most beautiful villages of France). A popular itinerary is to visit all of them or as many as possible – each has its own particular appeal and character! The villages typically sit perched atop hills and overlook extended valleys replete with olives groves, vineyards and other crop fields. Their signature landmarks, a castle or a church (or both), are to be found at the apex of the hills. As was the case with Roussillon, this village was unique, not only in its setting but in appearance, rendering it all the more a place not to miss!
A short drive from Roussillon, the village of Ménerbes came into view, and the road began snaking its way up toward the heart of town. The higher the ascent, the further the views of the countryside would extend, and the more excited we grew. Upon reaching the high point, we quickly realized that Ménerbes’ pulse beat eternal with its medieval charm and savory vistas of Provence’s beautiful landscapes. Interestingly, it was also where Pablo Picasso’s muse and one-time lover Dora Maar purchased a home in 1944 (with funds acquired from the sale of a painting he had gifted her). She owned the house until her death in 1997. Perhaps they too were inspired by the beauty of the area!
On a hot day as it were, the view of vineyards on the margins of town, became even more inviting. This was our call for a visit to nearby Domaine De La Citadelle for a degustation (or tasting), where we worked our way through a lineup of Syrah dominant rosés and reds, and crisp, cold dry whites. Perusing the winery’s cellar was fun too, a small perk that can go a long way with those curious about the wine making process. All in, the experience was a much needed respite from a day that reached temperatures well into the 90s (Fahrenheit).
More to come in Part 3 of our weekend, stay tuned!
Our Provençal Year 