In the last week of my mom’s stay, we managed to cover a few more of her favorite things: a new seaside hiking trail, a picturesque hilltop village, and the expressive character of a large metropolis — France’s 2nd largest city, Marseille. The weather was still nice with highs into the low 70s (Fahrenheit), which made her October trip quite pleasant.
Fort de Brégançon – Sentier de Littoral
Fort de Brégançon, a presidential summer residence, sits at the end or beginning (depending on your starting point), of a scenic coastal path we’ve come to love known as the sentier de littoral. The hike stretches across several beaches, bays, forests and vineyards, clocking in about 3-hours one way. We’ve yet to make the full leg and have only hiked in one direction (towards Fort de Brégançon). Our curiosity brought us to try the hike “backwards” starting from the fort which turned out to be a wonderful outing with spectacular views. We hiked for about an hour and a half soaking up the afternoon sunshine and benefiting from the clarity of the water with the sun directly overhead. One of these fine days we shall complete a leg from start to finish or finish to start, and that is a promise!
A Day in Marseille
The port city (largest port in France), traces its roots to Greek settlers around 600 BC making it the oldest city in France. Marseille is a city of many faces, blending its old fishing town spirit with modernity and a unique character. From a 1.9 mile long coastal road (with the world’s longest bench), known as the John Fitzgerald Kennedy Corniche, to impressive ports and a vibrant street art scene, the city has a way of expressing itself that makes visitors take special note. It’s been a few years since our last visit but one of the constants was meeting up with Brigitte’s aunt who grew up in Marseille and still lives in the city. And like last time, we took the touristic petit train to the city’s highest point where the Notre-Dame de la Garde basilica sits overlooking the city and the Mediterranean. Built in the middle of the 19th century, the basilica blends Neo-Byzantine and Romanesque architectural styles. It stands nearly 490 feet high and can be seen from anywhere in town. The petit train spared us a 25-30 minute arduous ascent to Notre-Dame de la Garde and also provided interesting historical info about the city. The 360 degree views from the basilica highlighted the sprawling city below and its notable landmarks . After lunch at the church’s restaurant, we delved into Marseille’s oldest neighborhood called the Panier. A must see, the Panier is classic Marseille, it’s super historic (with a rugged past), it’s got narrow streets replete with cafes, restaurants and boutiques, and best of all it’s a canvas of sorts for street art (tons of amazing graffiti).
To close out our day, we stopped by the Mucem (Museum of Civilizations of Europe and the Mediterranean), at the rooftop bar for much needed refreshments after pounding the pavement all afternoon. We barely scratched the surface of the Mucem (there is a ton to see on exhibit related to art, anthropology, architecture, history), making it a full-day affair for which we shall return. The museum complex was also impressive in its aesthetic and location right in the heart of ancient Marseille near the old port. Oh hey Marseille, merci for a great day!
Le Castellet
Before my mother bid us adieu and returned to New York, we had one final outing together to Le Castellet, a beautiful hilltop village that simply screams Provence. Panoramic views, colorful streets, numerous craft stores and art galleries helped define Le Castellet’s identity and charm. We enjoyed the picturesque town that seemed pretty empty, a good thing given that in summer it tends to be a top tourist destination.
October proved to be an opportune time for my mother’s visit bearing great weather and a significantly reduced tourist volume. We’ll savor the adventures we had together and also look forward to forging new ones when the time comes again.
Our Provençal Year 